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My very loved old Volvo, used almost every day and in all weathers. A 1989 245 GL. B230F Engine with catalyser and fuel injection. The engine has 314,340 Klms on the clock and, although a bit rattly when it first starts up cold, still drives well and quietly when warm. I have had to deal with one of the usual faults on these cars -  namely the broken wiring through the tailgate hinges which feeds the no: plate lights, the wipers, and the locking mechanism. I found out that, depending on when the car was made, the wiring can be on the left side or, the right side. Easy enough to check out. Because, I suppose, my car was built in '89, I found they had incorporated wiring on both sides. This means you have to go through the aggravation of threading wire looms through both sets of tailgate hinges. If anybody wants to know how you get around this one without too much trouble and without outside help, you had better mail me.

Anyway the car runs very well, has new brake linings and rear dampers and, now has a new German MOT. This being good for two years.

Update on this. My car has now been inspected and registered as an 'oldtimer' vehicle. The one advantage is that the car tax is a lot cheaper, but, having enquired with various insurance companies here in Germany they somehow (and not as in GB) are not willing to make any concessions unless the car is a vintage model or something very special, i.e. a jaguar, bugatti, or some such wonder . . . . .

 

 

 

We are always interested in anybody wanting to get rid of, or scrap one of these cars or, with spares they may want to sell. Please contact the E-Mail address on the starting page.

 

Volvo 740 1987 This 'oldie' belongs to my wife. Now the proud owner of 'H' plates (Historic Vehicle. ie: Oldtimer Registration.)

any,

 

A tip for 740/745 owners with frustrating roof lining problems.

As many of you will have experienced with your 740 (saloon) roof linings, when they get damp or old, the cloth lining seperates from the hard board lining it is stuck too. In our case it gradually got worse until it was nearly impossible to drive with the cloth hanging over our heads. All manner of suggestions are on the internet, some like taking the back window out to remove the hard lining to restore it with more cloth, or, cutting it in half to get the two pieces out through the doors and, I expect, having to fit it all back together somehow.

Well I'll let you into a secret which saves all this...

I pulled the cloth totally off, finding a very thin layer of foam stuck on the formed-cardboard hard lining underneath the cloth. First covering everything in the inside of the vehicle with dust cloths, I gently sandpapered (medium grade) the dried up foam off, leaving a smoothish surface suitable for painting. Then, gettting rid of all the dust first, I very carefully applied two coats of matt emulsion, same tone of grey as the old cloth. The result was perfect - a totally new lining. So much so that you can't tell that anything was ever done to the roof lining. It is now also damp proof, which, not only stops the same problem re-accuring, but can be repainted or wiped over should it get stained or dirty. Also, of course, you can finish it in any colour you wish - purple, red, orange, or again, Volvo grey.

 

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FOR SALE

 

I have a whole collection of British car workshop manuals (Haynes and others) for cars from the 6os and 70s. Also, proper full workshop manuals for the Hillman Avenger and Ford Taunus (all models P7A and P7B 1700s to 2800s in English, and, production years circa 1968 - 1973).

Manuals for Austin 1100, Ford Corsair, All MK 1, 11, 111 Fords Consul, Zephur, Zodiac, Cortina MK 11, Anglia 105E, VIVA, Freight Rover, Austin - Morris 1962 - 1967, and others.

Please e-mail if interested. Average cost about 30 GBP each (depending on condition - new or used) plus postage.

 

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